There seemed to be a nonchalance about the haute couture shows in Paris last week. Haute couture was always more relaxed, less shows, more dreams, less commercial and all about artistic craftsmanship made in France.
This year some things have changed, like US designers Proenza Schouler and Rodarte deciding to show their summer collection during Couture Week, as most of the international buyers were in town anyway and a good timing is key, as we all know. Even Azzedine Alaia decided to show his collection not off schedule and presentations were made dreamful as never before.
The big players like Dior and Chanel created true masterpieces of catwalk installations which tell stories by themselves, all around the topic of nature. Etienne Russo, the longtime set designer of Karl Lagerfeld, brought the nearby Tuileries gardens into the Palais Royale and created a giant Tour d’Eiffel surrounded by garden landscapes and the iconic green chairs where the editors took their seats.
Alexandre Batak created a Jurassic Park scenery under the sky at the Invalides (Thank God it didn’t rain!). Less opulent but no less spectacular was the choice of location by Proenza Schouler who showed at the Lycée Jaques Decour in the 9th and RODARTE at a convent on Faubourg Saint-Jacques at Porte Royale.
The jewelry designer Gaia Repossi invited guests to the Museé Picasso to present her latest fine jewelry collection and created an atmosphere that reminded us of an artist’s home. These locations perfectly fitted into the mood of reflection, nature, calm and purity. No drama, just simple luxury.
And the collections carried on that mood…..
DRAWINGS
Art makes this world more beautiful. Schiaparelli is known for their signature icons like the lobster, heart and puzzle pieces that are as surreal as the puppet heads of the Viktor&Rolf models. Iconic symbolism was a topic at Christian Dior where capes and accessories were decorated with detailed signets and handmade drawings.
HAIR
From loose natural locks to shampoo-left-in-the-hair-looks by hair artist Virginie for Martin Margiela, it could not have been more controversial. But the low ponytail was definitely a direction.
SHOES
Giambattista Valli showed flat velvet ballerinas and high heels as high and pointy as they could be made to still walk in them. I loved the golden cowboy boots that came up to the knee and are on my wish list.
WHITE
White is the new black. Valentino created the perfect match of white eyeliner, pointy boots and an all-white dress.
If you are in the mood for more haute couture, visit the big Christian Dior Retrospective, celebrating the 70th anniversary of the French couture house, at the Musée Arts Decoratifs, still showing till January 2018.
Visit the Guy Bourdin photo exhibition at Maison Chloe at 28 Rue de la Baume and be impressed by the many editorials he shot for the French fashion house (until September 6, 2017).
