We like how Paulina Esponda has built her shoe business. With only three different pairs and no web shop or look book, she has made shopping more contemporary than you might think.
You can find her brand RENATE JACOB on Instagram, where she shows her designs and how to wear them. Via direct message, you can arrange to pick up your pair from her Madrid showroom, or have them delivered to your door. When travelling abroad, you can meet her in her hotel room and try on the shoes from her suitcase. She has already won our hearts and our love for shoes. We met her in Madrid and chose the OMA wedge to add to our autumn/winter collection.
See all the looks and read about her process.
IRMA: What made you become a shoe designer? Why Renate Jacob?
PAULINA ESPONDA: I have always been fascinated by shoes and clothing as a form of personal expression. For years, I thought, ‘Another shoe line? There are already so many.’ But when I moved to Madrid five years ago, I finally had the opportunity to start my own brand.
Shoes have always been my obsession, not because I bought countless pairs, but because I could never stop imagining how I would change or improve a shoe. Every time I tried on a pair, I would think, ‘If only the heel were different, the vamp higher, the buckle softer, the sole more comfortable’. So I designed the OMA, a wedge mule. The response was fantastic, which gave me the confidence to continue.
Today, the collection includes four styles: the MAR, the ZEB, the LILA and, soon, the ANA. Each style is named after someone I love.
As for the brand name, RENATE JACOB was my grandmother. At just 15 years old, she left Germany during wartime and rebuilt her life in Guatemala with extraordinary courage. I was privileged to spend fifteen summers with her – she embodied love. Naming the brand after her keeps her spirit alive. No other name would have felt right for such a meaningful project.
IRMA: Your designs have a vintage aesthetic and a contemporary appeal. Where do you find inspiration?
PAULINA ESPONDA: Much of my inspiration comes from old indoor shoes with heels. I am very visual. Something has to catch my attention, whether it’s classic or even a little tacky. The important thing is that they feel special.
For me, shoes are not just accessories; they are my passion. I am always searching for the perfect pair: the right fit for every occasion. This helps me in my creative process.
At the same time, I never compromise on comfort. I want shoes that allow me to leave the house without worrying about how my day will unfold or what events may arise. I am also inspired by my daily surroundings: objects, people or moments that stand out. I don’t follow trends — I have a very clear sense of what I like and what I don’t.
IRMA: In your opinion, why are shoes the most essential item when it comes to dressing?
PAULINA ESPONDA: There is no good outfit if your shoes are not comfortable. Shoes reveal a lot about a person: their personality, lifestyle and priorities. Accessories in general are powerful. While many of us might wear the same dress, jumper or even T-shirt, it is the way we accessorise that makes the difference.
IRMA: How have the places you’ve lived influenced your style and designs?
PAULINA ESPONDA: Our taste and how we present ourselves are inevitably shaped by where we live and what we experience every day. I was born and raised in Mexico, then moved to London and New York, and now I live in Madrid. Each place has left its mark on me and inspired me through its culture, people and way of life.
I have never been interested in following trends. In fact, I can be quite stubborn about it. What matters to me is feeling comfortable while also being different. I sometimes take risks, but I always stay true to myself. So yes, my style is definitely a reflection of the places I have lived in.
IRMA: When you’re putting an outfit together, do you start with the shoes or the clothes?
PAULINA ESPONDA: It depends on the day, but more often than not, I start with the shoes. It depends on how I feel. If I have meetings or long walks ahead, I prioritise comfort and build the outfit from the shoes up. Other times, I may be drawn to a particular dress or jumper, and then I start from there.
When travelling, I always choose two or three pairs of shoes first and then select clothing to complement them.
IRMA: How can people find you and shop your collection?
PAULINA ESPONDA: At the moment, the best way is through Instagram (@renatejacob.madrid), where I regularly share photos of the shoes and ideas on how to wear them. I love connecting with my clients as it allows me to receive feedback, share inspiration and maintain a personal touch to the brand. I also have an appointment-only showroom in Madrid.
I am currently working on launching my website.
