In the 19th century, the Abbaye des Vaux de Cernay found a second life as the summer residence of Baroness Charlotte de Rothschild — an accomplished watercolourist whose circle included Balzac, Manet and Rousseau, and whose piano teacher was Chopin.
In late 2023, following a meticulous restoration by Paris Society, it reopened to the world. The interiors were reimagined by Cordélia de Castellane — Artistic Director of Dior Maison — a vision that holds ancient architecture and the spirit of a contemporary members’ club in careful tension. Her own words: “one of the most beautiful things I’ve seen in my life… extremely French, and where life seems very gentle.”
We spent two days here. This is exactly what we did.
7:30 — Waking Up in the Abbey
Early light through stone-framed windows. Mist on the lake. Penhaligon’s on the bathroom shelf. No alarm needed — birdsong does that.
Morning walks are non-negotiable. A circuit of the lake, a stop at the fitness trail, a session on the floating paddle court. The air is crisp and clean in a way that feels almost medicinal.
8:30 — Breakfast at Le Réfectoire des Moines
Vaulted ceilings. Candlelight, even at this hour. Towers of house-made pastries and bread. The madeleines, dipped in crème fraîche and homemade raspberry jam, demand attention. So does the local cheese. The brioche arrives still warm.
Linger. Make notes, or small sketches — as Charlotte de Rothschild did before she began her day. Or simply sit, and let the medieval grandeur do its work.
10:00 — Bike Ride to the Farm
The estate covers 185 acres of meadow, lake and forest. Bike trails thread through it all — past medieval relics and neo-Gothic halls, past wildflowers and quiet benches ideal for an unplanned pause.
Stop for birdwatching. There is no schedule.
13:00 — Lunch at La Trattoria
Farm-to-fork Italian. A table with patio views, ideally. A glass of white Burgundy. Seasonal vegetables, homemade pasta. No rush at all.
If the weather holds, take lunch outside — one of the organised picnics, simple and reliably delicious.
15:00 — Tata Harper Spa
Seven treatment rooms, a wellness space, a heated outdoor pool set within the estate. The spa was created in collaboration with Tata Harper — slow, plant-based, quietly effective. Before any treatment, go to the hammam first. Your skin will thank you.
17:00 — The Abbey Ruins at Golden Hour
This is the most atmospheric hour. The old stone glows. The walls hold 900 years of silence.
Alternatively: arrange a private aperitivo at the Pagode. A gift from Japan to Baroness Charlotte, a small lacquered structure in bright red, set directly beside the lake. Book it for champagne and amuse-gueules. The sundowner here has no rival.
21:00 — Dinner at Les Chasses
The Rothschild family’s former hunting lodge. Wood panelling. Hushed elegance. Order the lamb. A good red. The kind of dinner that becomes a reference point — you will find yourself saying: do you remember that evening at the Abbey?
23:00 — Back to the Room
Windows open. The forest completely silent. The lake invisible in the dark, but present. No television. A good book, or nothing at all.
Two days like this return something. Energy. Perspective. A relationship with slowness that city life makes easy to forget. French wine, in moderation. A kitchen shaped by the farms surrounding the estate. And interiors by Cordélia de Castellane that succeed, genuinely, in holding history and contemporary ease in the same room.
Fifty minutes from Paris. Worth every one of them.