There are many places in Asia that make us feel calm and relaxed, and sometimes even spiritual, but no other place makes time flow more slowly and light shine more brightly than an Aman hotel the minute you step inside.
One such place that I recently visited is Amantaka in Luang Prabang, Laos.
Although it is set on a leafy, UNESCO-protected peninsula in the heart of busy Luang Prabang, a town located along the Mekong River, you feel cocooned in quietness the minute you step into the frangipani gardens.
This colonial building, carefully restored and extended by Singapore-based architect Kerry Hill, a pioneer of tropical modernism, creates the impression that you could stay there forever. Even the rhythm of the staff and guests, and the way the trees move in the wind, has a timeless quality.
It is the ideal place to experience Laos in a gentle yet authentic way. You can experience the Buddhist religion and its rituals, sample the fine Lao cuisine, and enjoy the lush nature that frames your entire stay.
Days start early at 5:50 am, when the monks come down from their temple to receive offerings from the community. The chanting, accompanied by the sunrise, will ensure you won’t want to stay in bed. This will make you feel like part of the community immediately, not only because of the central location in the old part of town, where there is a schoolhouse across the street with laughing children, but also because you won’t mind at all.
Days are full of activities, but not rushed, rather rich. Every move you make is a treat. It might be your morning swim in the large pool or meditation in the privacy of your garden. You could take a walk along the Mekong River to watch the city wake up, or enjoy a sunset tour on a traditional wooden boat drifting along the river.
Three nights give you four days, which is the perfect amount of time to take a break from Bangkok or begin a journey through south-east Asia. Here’s IRMA’s plan to help you make the most of it.
Day 1
Arrive and enjoy the garden while sipping mint and dill tea with afternoon snacks. Go for an evening walk or bike tour around town. Have an aperitif at Little Lao House, where you can enjoy their famous homemade cocktails while people-watching, before heading back to the hotel for a candlelit dinner by the pool. You may also like to squeeze in a Lao massage or a quick steam bath in the hotel’s bath house to help you relax after your journey.
Day 2
Rise early to witness the monks’ alms-giving ritual, Tak Bat. Enjoy the clear view from the hill, then walk through the village to see how cooking and daily life begin.
Then, explore Luang Prabang’s spiritual and artisanal soul: Visit Wat Xieng Thong, the former royal palace, and hidden workshops specialising in indigo dyeing and hand-woven silk. Go early to avoid the Chinese tourist groups.
Return to Amantaka for a delicious Lao omelette, chia pudding with passion fruit, and freshly squeezed juice.
Then enjoy some time relaxing in the garden. You can skip lunch, but you could always pop to La Lo Laos, the best minimal coffee place in town, for a quick cold brew coffee.
At around 4 pm, get ready for a sunset cruise on the Mekong River on the hotel’s private boat. Relax on board and simply watch the world go by, sipping chilled coconut water and enjoying some Laotian delicacies as the sun sets. It’s a truly spectacular moment, despite the many other boats enjoying the same view.
IRMA’s tip: Bring a good playlist that you can connect to the onboard speaker to make you feel at home while you enjoy the view. In the evening, you can relax by the pool restaurant or enjoy a livelier atmosphere at Little Lao, an authentic modern Laotian restaurant that celebrates history and tradition through its cuisine.
On your way back, keep an eye out for the store called Hilltribe Heritage, which sells excellent vintage Hmong clothing and woven fabrics, as well as unique gift ideas.
Day 3
Start the day with a yoga class and breakfast by the pool.
Then walk to the TAEC (Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre) to learn about the various crafts of Laos’ diverse ethnic communities.
Enjoy a cup of tea in the museum café and browse the museum shop, which sells beautifully woven items.
Have lunch at Luang Prabang’s oldest French bakery, La Banneton, to relive your Indochine memories or simply for a change of scene. Then, walk back to Amantaka for a siesta before visiting the different papermaking, weaving and wood carving ateliers. Stroll along a small street and enjoy some shopping.
An early dinner awaits you at the hotel, followed by an evening stroll through Luang Prabang or the night market to round off your day.
Day 4
After packing and enjoying a final delicious, healthy breakfast, you can experience a private Baci ceremony, a poetic Lao ritual of blessing and balance, before travelling further.
WHAT WE MISSED:
We missed the Kuang Si Falls because of the large number of tourist groups that visit them now. Unless you get there at six in the morning to experience the grandeur of this natural spectacle in all its glory. Otherwise, it starts to feel like a theme park.