Atlas Land – The art of natural winemaking

During a dinner at a restaurant in Lisbon, we were introduced to Atlas Land natural wine and its unusual origins. This wine is produced by Italian oenologist Filippo Pozzi in the Algarve, a region not typically associated with traditional Portuguese winemaking. Filippo is not your average winemaker; he is more of an artist, creating exceptional wines with a particular focus on terroir, capturing the soul and mood of the landscape and its people. We had the opportunity to have a fascinating conversation with Filippo Pozzi.

Filippo Pozzi from Atlas Land.

IRMA: From the mountains of Piedmont to the coast of Algarve, your journey as a winemaker is quite unique. What inspired you to establish your winery in Portugal, and how has this environment influenced your approach to winemaking?
FILIPPO POZZI: I chose to move here for several reasons. Firstly, this part of Portugal offers ideal conditions for winemaking, with vineyards close to the ocean that are readily available for cultivation. The climate here is also well-suited for clean, organic agriculture, as the area is relatively isolated and naturally resistant to diseases, which supports organic farming. Additionally, there isn’t a traditional winemaking style imposed by the region, which gives me the freedom to experiment without facing resistance or criticism. My goal is to create wines that capture the purest expression of the coastal flavours, following my own vision while allowing the true essence of the region to shine through, with minimal interference.

Jasmin Khezri and Filippo Pozzi

IRMA: You’ve worked in renowned wine regions like Pauillac and Napa Valley. How have these experiences shaped your philosophy at Atlas Land, and what elements from those regions have you integrated or perhaps rejected in your own winemaking process?
FILIPPO POZZI: My classical training is something I deeply value. It provided an excellent foundation, teaching me how wine is made at a very traditional, high level, and it shaped my palate, which was developed by tasting classic wines. This background greatly influences my decision-making throughout my projects. When working in top wineries worldwide, I noticed that making wine naturally or the way I do isn’t all that different from what they do. Many principles overlap, such as striving for quality by minimizing chemical use to ensure clean grapes, and maintaining a meticulous, clean, and carefully planned winemaking process. While larger wineries may follow more standardized procedures, I have more freedom in my approach, yet I still prioritize cleanliness and careful planning, especially during crucial stages like fermentation and aging. Another key lesson I’ve taken from these experiences is the importance of patience—allowing the wine the time it needs to develop and express its character. Ultimately, it’s up to the customer to open the bottle at the right moment, but it’s essential to give the wine the time it needs to reveal what it truly has to offer.

Vinyard

IRMA: Atlas Land is known for its small-scale production and your hands-on approach in the vineyards. Could you elaborate on how this intimate involvement with the land and the vines impacts the final character of your wines?
FILIPPO POZZI: We spend countless days tending to the grapes, and since we are a very small team—often, it’s just me—I’m deeply involved in every aspect of the vineyard’s growth. Observing the vineyards daily throughout the season allows me to understand what each plot needs and what each one aims to express. Each plot has its unique characteristics, and we often care for the vines individually, especially since some areas require handwork due to their irregular layout, making it impossible to use tractors. This close, constant interaction with the land and the vines gives me a natural understanding of what the plants want to convey each year. For me, it’s crucial that each wine reflects a specific moment in time—my time spent here. If I’m experiencing challenging moments, I want the wine to reflect that complexity. If the period is more joyful and serene, I want the wine to embody that lightness. It’s a very personal process, but it’s essential for me to revisit a bottle from a challenging year and find those same flavours and emotions preserved within it.

Atlas Land

IRMA: You utilize a variety of winemaking techniques, from stainless steel tanks to old oak barrels and “damigiane.” What drives your choice of method for each wine, and how do these methods help you achieve the specific expression you aim for?
FILIPPO POZZI: I like to work with what I have, and I see it as another form of art. Rather than sticking to familiar methods, I enjoy experimenting. For instance, I’d love to use cement tanks because, for the wines I make, they would offer the best control over the vineyard’s expression. My goal is to avoid altering the wine’s natural flavour, which is why I don’t use new oak barrels. By experimenting with different materials, I can better understand the flavours of this region and determine what each wine needs. Over the years, making different decisions and observing how the wines evolve has helped me grasp the characteristics and behaviour of each one. Once I feel a wine has reached the right expression, I try not to change much, but I’m always open to adjusting my approach if I notice something missing during aging. These small adjustments from year to year allow me to refine the wine-making process continually.

Jasmin Khezri and Filippo Pozzi, Atlans Land

IRMA: Your sister, Carolin Pozzi, creates the labels for your wines. How do her artistic vision and your winemaking philosophy complement each other, and what role do these labels play in communicating the essence of your wines to consumers?
FILIPPO POZZI: My sister Carolin has a unique personality and creates equally unique art. When it comes to the labels, she has a lot of creative freedom. I provide her with simple, non-technical descriptions, like the feeling of a midday in August or the mood of a cold February evening. From these impressions, she develops a series of artworks, and we choose the one that best represents the wine. Her work adds a special touch, making each wine truly distinctive and helping to express its character visually to the consumer.

Atlas Land. Label by Carolin Pozzi

 

A friend of the house. Musician and fashion agent Genji Kuno